In the south the land descends to form an alluvial plain, watered by shallow, north-south flowing rivers, drier in the dry season and overflowing during periods of heavy rain. The longest of these rivers, Sungai Ayung, is also the longest on the island (approx. 75 km).

The principal cities are the northern port of Singaraja, the former colonial capital of Bali, and the present provincial capital and largest city, Denpasar, near the southern coast. The town of Ubud (north of Denpasar), with its art market, museums and galleries, is arguably the cultural centre of Bali.

Southern Bali in the foreground and Mount Agung behind

There are major coastal roads and those that cross the island mainly north-south. Due to the mountainous terrain in the island’s center, the roads tend to follow the crests of the ridges across the mountains. There are no railway lines.

The island is surrounded by coral reefs. Beaches in the south tend to have white sand while those in the north and west have black sand. The beach town of Padangbai in the south east has both^{[citation needed]}. The Ho River is navigable by small sampan boats. Black sand beaches between Pasut and Klatingdukuh are being developed for tourism, but apart from the seaside temple of Tanah Lot.

To the east, the Lombok Strait separates Bali from Lombok and marks the biogeographical division between the fauna of the Indomalayan ecozone and the distinctly different fauna of Australasia. The transition is known as the Wallace Line, named after Alfred Russel Wallace, who first proposed transition zone between these two major biomes. When sea levels dropped during the Pleistocene ice age, Bali was connected to Java and Sumatra and to the mainland of Asia and shared the Asian fauna, but the deep water of the Lombok Strait continued to keep Lombok and the Lesser Sunda archipelago isolated.

(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bali)

Temple offering in predominantly Hindu Bali island.

Bali was inhabited by Austronesian peoples by about 2,000 BCE who migrated originally from Taiwan through Maritime Southeast Asia.^[2] Culturally and linguistically, the Balinese are thus closely related to the peoples of the Indonesian archipelago, the Philippines, and Oceania.^[3] Stone tools dating from this time have been found near the village of Cekik in the island’s west.^[4]

Balinese culture was strongly influenced by Indian and Chinese, and particularly Hindu culture, in a process beginning around the 1st century AD. The name Balidwipa has been discovered from various inscriptions, including the Blanjong charter issued by Sri Kesari Warmadewa in 913 AD and mentioning Walidwipa. It was during this time that the complex irrigation system subak was developed to grow rice. Some religious and cultural traditions still in existence today can be traced back to this period. The Hindu Majapahit Empire (1293–1520 AD) on eastern Java founded a Balinese colony in 1343. When the empire declined, there was an exodus of intellectuals, artists, priests and musicians from Java to Bali in the 15th century.

The first European contact with Bali is thought to have been made by Dutch explorer Cornelis de Houtman who arrived in 1597, though a Portuguese ship had foundered off the Bukit Peninsula as early as 1585.^{[citation needed]} Dutch colonial control was expanded across the Indonesian archipelago in the nineteenth century (see Dutch East Indies). Their political and economic control over Bali began in the 1840s on the island’s north coast by playing various distrustful Balinese realms against each other.^[5] In the late 1890s, struggles between Balinese kingdoms in the island’s south were exploited by the Dutch to increase their control. The Dutch mounted large naval and ground assaults at the Sanur region in 1906 and were met by the thousands of members of the royal family and their followers who marched to certain death against superior Dutch force in a suicidal puputan defensive assault rather than face the humiliation of surrender.^[5] Despite Dutch demands for surrender, an estimated 4,000 Balinese marched to their death against the invaders. In 1908, a similar massacre occurred in the face of a Dutch assault in Klungkung. Afterwards the Dutch governors were able to exercise little influence over the island, and local control over religion and culture generally remained intact.

Dutch rule over Bali had come later and was never as well established as in other parts of Indonesia such as Java and Maluku. Imperial Japan occupied Bali during World War II during which time a Balinese military officer, Gusti Ngurah Rai, formed a Balinese ‘freedom army’. In the 1930s, anthropologists Margaret Mead and Gregory Bateson, and artists Miguel Covarrubias and Walter Spies, and musicologist Colin McPhee created a western image of Bali as “an enchanted land of aesthetes at peace with themselves and nature”, and western tourism first developed on the island.^[6] Following Japan’s Pacific surrender in August 1945, the Dutch promptly returned to Indonesia, including Bali, immediately to reinstate their pre-war colonial administration. This was resisted by the Balinese rebels now using Japanese weapons. On 20 November 1946, the Battle of Marga was fought in Tabanan in central Bali. Colonel I Gusti Ngurah Rai, 29 years old, finally rallied his forces in east Bali at Marga Rana, where they made a suicide attack on the heavily armed Dutch. The Balinese battalion was entirely wiped out, breaking the last thread of Balinese military resistance. In 1946 the Dutch constituted Bali as one of the 13 administrative districts of the newly-proclaimed Republic of East Indonesia, a rival state to the Republic of Indonesia which was proclaimed and headed by Sukarno and Hatta. Bali was included in the “Republic of the United States of Indonesia” when the Netherlands recognised Indonesian independence on 29 December 1949.

The 1963 eruption of Mount Agung killed thousands, created economic havoc and forced many displaced Balinese to be transmigrated to other parts of Indonesia. Mirroring the widening of social divisions across Indonesia in the 1950s and early 1960s, Bali saw conflict between supporters of the traditional caste system, and those rejecting these traditional values. Politically, this was represented by opposing supporters of the Indonesian Communist Party (PKI) and the Indonesian Nationalist Party (PNI), with tensions and ill-feeling further increased by the PKI’s land reform programs.^[5] An attempted coup in Jakarta was put down by forces led by General Suharto. The army became the dominant power as it instigated a violent anti-communist purge, in which the army blamed the PKI for the coup. Most estimates suggest that at least 500,000 people were killed across Indonesia, with an estimated 80,000 killed in Bali, equivalent to 5 per cent of the island’s population.^[7] With no Islamic forces involved as in Java and Sumatra, upper-caste PNI landlords led the extermination of PKI members.^[8]

As a result of the 1965/66 upheavals, Suharto was able to manoeuvre Sukarno out of the presidency, and his “New Order” government reestablished relations with western countries. The Bali as a tourist paradise which was instigated during the pre World War II colonial time was revised in a modern form, and the resulting large growth in tourism has led to Balinese standards of living rise dramatically and significant foreign exchange earned for the country.^[5] A bombing in 2002 by militant Islamists in the tourist area of Kuta killed 202 people, mostly foreigners. This attack, and another in 2005, severely affected tourism, bringing much economic hardship to the island.

Monument of Bali black memory

Bali blast monument.

Bali’s natural attractions include miles of sandy beaches, picturesque rice terraces, towering active volcanoes over 3,000 meters (10,000 ft.) high, fast flowing rivers, deep ravines, pristine crater lakes, sacred caves and lush tropical forests full of exotic wildlife.

The island’s rich cultural heritage is visible everywhere – in over 20,000 temples and palaces, in the many colorful festivals and ceremonies (including tooth filings and cremations) and in its drama, music and dance.

Bali can be experienced in many different excursions; guided tours by coach, private car or “Big Bike”, by boat or by air plane and helicopter. Seeing Bali’s beaches and rice terraces, the famous Besakih Temple on the slopes of holy Mount Agung, Lake Batur and its active volcano and the temples of Tanah Lot and Ulu Watu from the air is a really spectacular experience.

Kintamani Volcano Tour:

The first stop is often in the village of Batubulan to watch a performance of the Barong and Kris Dance. Afterwards you visit the villages of Celuk (silver jewelry) and Mas (wood carving) to see Balinese artisans at work. Ubud, Bali’s cultural center, has grown to a busy town with numerous Balinese art galleries and shops. A scenic drive over small roads overlooking beautiful rice terraces brings you to the mountain village of Kintamani (about 5,000 feet above the sea) which offers stunning views of Lake Batur and the volcano. You can then cross the crater-lake below the still active Mount Batur and visit the ‘Bali Aga’ village of Trunyan then return through traditional villages with stops in Tampaksiring to visit the temple of Tirta Empul and to visit the Elephant Cave “Goa Gajah”, a hermitage from the 11th. century used by both Buddhists and Hindus.

The ‘Mother Temple’ and East Bali Tour:

Drive to Besakih through various villages visiting on the way a weaving factory, see the famous painted ceiling at the old “Palace of Justice” in Klungkung, and visit the school of painting in Kamasan. The “Mother Temple” in Besakih is Bali’s most holy and Indonesia’s biggest Hindu temple. It was built in the 11th century at an altitude of 1,000 meters (3,000 feet) on the slopes of Mount Agung. You pass picturesque rice terraces on the way to the walled ‘Bali Aga’ village of Tenganan and continue to Candi Dasa on the East coast. On the way back it’s recommended to stop at the famous Bat Cave ‘Goa Lawah’ to see the thousands of bats hanging from the walls inside.

Bedugul Tour:

After a stop in Sangeh to visit its holy forest inhabited by wild monkeys, drive up into the mountains to Lake Beratan (1,200 meters above sea level) and the picturesque water temple Ulu Danu. Visit the busy flower, fruit and spice market in Candikuning and drive back through small country roads, villages and rice fields, with a stop in an artisan village specializing in gold threaded textiles (Ikat) worn during important ceremonies.

North Bali Tour:

Drive the scenic road via Pupuan through the mountains to Bali’s North coast. You’ll enjoy beautiful views of picturesque rice terraces and large plantations growing vanilla, chocolate, coffee, cloves and even grapes for Bali’s own wineries. Near the village of Banjar is a popular hot spring where you can take a bath in the natural pond. After a lunch on the black beach in Lovina you pass the old capital of Singaraja on the way to Git Git, famous for its multi-tier water fall. Return over back roads to see the unspoiled Bali. (This tour can be combined with the visit to Bedugul.)

Monkey Forest & Tanah Lot Tour:

Visit the royal Taman Ayun temple in Mengwi (built in 1624), the holy monkey forest near Sangeh, and famous Tanah Lot at sunset. This picturesque Balinese temple was built in the 16th century on a huge rock 100 yards off of Bali’s west coast is surrounded by the sea during high tide.

Handicraft Villages & Ubud Tour:

Visit the artisan villages of Batubulan (stone carving), Celuk (silver & gold jewelry), Mas (wood carving), and Pengosekan (painting). Stop at the “Bali Art Market” in Sukawati to bargain for all kinds of handicrafts and textiles.
Since the 1930s, Ubud has been known around the world as Bali’s cultural center. Today Ubud is a fast growing town with numerous art galleries and shops offering paintings, wood carvings and textiles. Don’t miss the MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN in the center of Ubud, the NEKA MUSEUM in Campuhan, the NEKA GALLERY in Ubud, the AGUNG RAI GALLERY in Peliatan, and the AGUNG RAI MUSEUM in Pengosekan to see the difference between creative art and more commercial products. A visit to the SENIWATI GALLERY – ART BY WOMEN, founded in 1991 by Mary Northmore (the very personable wife of famous painter Abdul Azis) to help Balinese women to be accepted as artists, is a must. This gallery highlights the long understated brilliance of independent women artists’ resident in Bali and motivates, trains, and encourages young Balinese girls with creative talents.(www.bali2008.com)

Some say that the Balinese people have reached the height of self-contentment. It is not an exaggeration when a Balinese is asked what heaven is like, he would say, “Just like Bali without the worries of mundane life”. The Balinese want to live in Bali and be re-incarnated in Bali. This does not imply that the Balinese are resistant to change. Instead, they adapt change into their own system of living.

Religion

Bali Hinduism is a faith that has roots in Indian Hinduism and in Buddhism. It adopted the animistic traditions of the indigenes peoples which inhabited the island around the first millennium BC. This influence strengthened the belief that the gods and goddesses are present in all things. Every element of nature, therefore, possesses its own power which reflects the power of the gods. A rock, tree, dagger, or woven cloth is a potential home for spirits whose energy can be directed for good or evil.

Balinese Hinduism is deeply interwoven with art and ritual and is less preoccupied with scripture, law and belief than Islam in Indonesia. In their arts, traditional paintings faithfully depicting religious and mythological symbolism meets with foreign influences that have given birth to contemporary works. They are free in their creative thinking yet strongly and distinctively Balinese. Wood and stone carvings, gold and silver crafts parallel the development of paintings, gracefully evolving with external forces to enhance their characters. In their dance, music and theater is laden with religious connotations again performed mostly to appease and to please the gods and the goddesses.

Ritualizing states of self-control are a notable feature of religious expression among the people, who for this reason have become famous for their graceful and decorous behaviour. (www.bali2008.com)

Bali is part of the Republic of Indonesia. It is one of the country’s 33 provinces with the provincial capital in Denpasar towards the south of the island. Bali is home to a population of over 3 million, the vast majority of which are Indonesia’s small Hindu minority. Bali is also the largest tourist destination in the country and is renowned for its highly developed arts, including dance, sculpture, painting, leather, metalworking and music.
Bali lies between Java in the West and Lombok in the East. The island is 153 km long and 112 km wide (95 by 69 miles) with a surface area of 5,633 km². It is famous for its beautiful landscape. A chain of six volcanoes, between 1,350 meters and 3,014 meters high, stretches from west to east. There are lush tropical forests, pristine crater lakes, fast flowing rivers and deep ravines and picturesque rice terraces and fertile vegetable and fruit gardens cover its alluvial plains.

The island is surrounded by coral reefs. The beaches in the south tend to have white sand while those in the north and west have black and grey volcanic sand. Bali has two active volcanoes. Mount Agung, Bali’s highest peak, rises to an impressive height of 3,142 m (10,308 feet). It last erupted in March 1963. An eruption around 30,000 years ago, from Mount Batur, Bali’s second active volcano was recoded as of one of the largest known volcanic events on Earth. The mountainous region covers Bali from its centre to the eastern side of the island. It is due to this terrain that the roads tend to follow the crests of the ridges across the mountains and the coast.(www.bali2008.com)